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Overheating problem

singular.droid

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It is summer in most of the regions where S2 files novadays. And more and more people complain on overheating problem that drone is landind after only 2-5-10 minutes in the air and is hot as hell then. Who tried what to overcome the problem?
  1. Drill more holes in its upper and sides of body - to make heat dissipate better
  2. Re-paint upper part in white (usually white color bring about 15-20% less heating for most of structures)
  3. anything else?
 
I spoke with Skydio about this, As I live in Arizona and when I received my Skydio 2 everyday was 115 degrees. I told them I don't honestly know if all my batteries are defective I am unable to get a full flight in. I asked if they had a matrix temperature is this, due point is that if you hover for this many minutes and it would calculate for the weather you are flying in n how you are flying and give you a sum of how many minutes your battery would last. I was actually kind of shocked when he told me then didn't have any thing like that. Always he also told my that the manuals perimeters for flying temperatures are incorrect as those are set for the batteries. I di not recall what he said the cold temperature was. That he just said do not fly when the cameras lenses fog up cause the drone will not fly right. 94 degrees anything hotter is putting n huge wear on the electronics
I use to put my power tool's batteries in a cooler for them, just for them in my work truck . So my drill and all would last longer in the AZ heat. I worked on the cell towers and the steal would get hot and none of the power tool wanted to work up there.
I thought about painting mine with the trick bed liner as it doesn't get hot so that would eliminate the direct heat from the son .
 
I spoke with Skydio about this, As I live in Arizona and when I received my Skydio 2 everyday was 115 degrees. I told them I don't honestly know if all my batteries are defective I am unable to get a full flight in. I asked if they had a matrix temperature is this, due point is that if you hover for this many minutes and it would calculate for the weather you are flying in n how you are flying and give you a sum of how many minutes your battery would last. I was actually kind of shocked when he told me then didn't have any thing like that. Always he also told my that the manuals perimeters for flying temperatures are incorrect as those are set for the batteries. I di not recall what he said the cold temperature was. That he just said do not fly when the cameras lenses fog up cause the drone will not fly right. 94 degrees anything hotter is putting n huge wear on the electronics
I use to put my power tool's batteries in a cooler for them, just for them in my work truck . So my drill and all would last longer in the AZ heat. I worked on the cell towers and the steal would get hot and none of the power tool wanted to work up there.
I thought about painting mine with the trick bed liner as it doesn't get hot so that would eliminate the direct heat from the son .
I was also considering paint it however I realized that paint will only increase the problem of heat dissipation from the inside to the outside because painting will create another layer of insulation between hot internals and relatively cold outsides. I'm assessing the idea of 3d-printing some drone parts out of white plastic and making some holes here and there on it. However, it might be then some dust which may impact plus 3d-printed items might be more fragile which could be an issue for high-speed maneuvering with cracks deployment here and there and pre-flight/post-flight checks for any chasms
 
I was also considering paint it however I realized that paint will only increase the problem of heat dissipation from the inside to the outside because painting will create another layer of insulation between hot internals and relatively cold outsides. I'm assessing the idea of 3d-printing some drone parts out of white plastic and making some holes here and there on it. However, it might be then some dust which may impact plus 3d-printed items might be more fragile which could be an issue for high-speed maneuvering with cracks deployment here and there and pre-flight/post-flight checks for any chasms

If you were going to try some 3D printed option, you could make some small, low profile ( 1/4" high or less) hoods with an upturned lip facing rearward, hot glued over a small hole drilled into the body at strategic points. The upturned lip would create a low pressure scavenging effect (vacuum) to pull heat from the body interior.

Because the hood shields the hole, you wouldn't get direct entry from debris and because while moving, the scavenge effect drawing a vacuum on the hole, dust wouldn't enter then either.
 

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